Profiled by Maria Devan
Morning! Sunner Kolsch. I will take an entire palate of this all for myself. I cannot believe how fast I drank this beer and I think that chugging got started because of this style.
Gives an elegant and very soft pour with a cream colored head of cottony cloud like foam. grainy, a bit of earth form hops and a barely perceptible fruity ester from yeast. banana.
On the palate the malt is soft and graceful. Fully breaddy. As soon as you swallow there is a faint little tang. It accents the steadfast malt so well and brings all the flavor together in compliment with a subtlety that is no trick. It’s simply an omission. Light sulfur. A touch of malt richness that shows the delicate complexity but does not bring it to you too powerfully. Restrained malt. As it lingers breaddy in the aftertaste you feel like you could drink the whole glass in one easy gulp. Crisp clean no diacetyl. This one is actually quite hoppy or quite fresh as compared to some.
Hop herbal gives a wink at the finish and then as you drink and start to notice more flavor it’s like soft yellow grasses. Almost hay. Dry, soft not bubbly.
Bitterness that is understated at first but does last a little. That choice for carbonation really allows the malt to be expressive and expansive. Hop floral was always there and now it’s time to laugh because this was beer not bread and an ale. A not too sweet flower petal.
It’s as though you looked down and saw a golden flower. So you ate it and made it you feel hearty and then you laughed.
Welcome to the PGA beer rating system: one beer “Don’t bother.” Two: Eh, if someone gives it to you, drink. Three: very good, go ahead and seek it out, but be aware there is at least one problem. Four: seek it out. Five: pretty much “perfecto.”
Maria Devan lives in Ithaca, NY and is a great beer writer. That’s Maria in the middle. The other two are not, but they are lucky to have her as a friend.