Profiled by Maria Devan for PGA
Pours the color of a ripe apricot with the blush on it. Hazy and almost opaque except for it does let enough light in for you to observe it’s lovely color and the bubbles that are starting their way up from the bottom. 2 fingers of white foam top the beer and last until they become a light layer of film on top.
Nose is funky with barnyard and earth. Wet damp earth. Some fruit tartness and a sour you can smell. A drop of vinegar and some overall lemon fruitiness. There is some vanilla on the nose that is like a fragrant flower that has grown in this earth and is sweetly in bloom.
Taste is outstanding. Funky, sour, citric, the embodiment of the lemon. The essence of the icy bright peel. The vinegar is not too strong. The earth and the wood come together as like is to like. The headiness of the fruit sweetness meets the light sweetness of the crisp wheat and lay a soft foundation for this dynamic beer. Sour, acidic, earthy, and with a touch of some kind of green but woody herb to round out the flavor. Dry crisp and bubbly mouthfeel.
This beer is intense. The coming together of powerful earth and a bright bit of uplifted sweetness. The shyness of the musty earth after it rains and the greeness that lies in wait for when the sun comes to shine again. The fruit is the culmination of this beer and is taken whole in it’s every aspect from sweet peel to the tartness of it’s flesh , right through to it’s final incarnation – sour and like vinegar in decay. This beer is truly a perfect wedding of elements.
4.
Welcome to the PGA beer rating system: one beer “Don’t bother.” Two: Eh, if someone gives it to you, drink. Three: very good, go ahead and seek it out, but be aware there is at least one problem. Four: seek it out. Five: pretty much “perfecto.”
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Maria Devan lives in Ithaca, NY and is frequent reviewer of beer and a beer lover deluxe.